Kashmir in winter is properly cold. Srinagar’s nights are below freezing for most of December and January, and Gulmarg’s average daytime high is only 1–5°C. In exchange you get snow, empty-ish lanes in the old city, and the only season you can ski in India with real lift access. It works well if you plan around one thing: from late December to the end of January, snow can shut roads and ground flights for a day or two at a time. Build a spare day into your trip and you’ll be fine.
How cold does it actually get?
Colder than most people from the plains expect. Here are the long-term averages (IMD, 1991–2020):
| Average high / low | December | January | February |
|---|---|---|---|
| Srinagar | 10°C / −2°C | 7°C / −2°C | 11°C / 1°C |
| Pahalgam | 8°C / −4°C | 5°C / −6°C | 7°C / −4°C |
| Gulmarg | 5°C / −5°C | 1°C / −8°C | 2°C / −6°C |
Those are averages. Cold spells go well below them: Srinagar has recorded −14°C in January. Pack thermals, a proper down or padded jacket, gloves, a woollen cap and waterproof shoes with grip. Sports shoes on packed snow in Gulmarg are how ankles get twisted.
What is Chillai Kalan, and should you avoid it?
Chillai Kalan is the 40 harshest days of the Kashmiri winter, from 21 December to the end of January. It’s followed by Chillai Khurd (20 days) and Chillai Bachha (10 days). You don’t need to avoid it. It’s the most likely time for heavy snow, which is what most winter visitors come for. Just know that it’s also when the highway closes, flights get cancelled and parts of Dal Lake freeze over.
If snow on the ground is the whole point, mid-January to mid-February is usually the safest bet. If you mostly want crisp, clear days in Srinagar and fewer disruptions, early December or late February are calmer.
Getting there in winter: flight, train or road?
The train is now the most reliable option in bad weather. Since June 2025 the Vande Bharat runs all the way to Srinagar on the new USBRL line, across the Chenab bridge. Since May 2026 it also runs from Jammu Tawi, stopping at Katra and Banihal, and takes roughly 4 hours 40 minutes from Jammu. The trains are built for −20°C, with heated windshields and anti-freeze plumbing. On 24 January 2026, when heavy snow shut the Jammu–Srinagar highway and grounded flights, the Vande Bharat kept running. It isn’t snow-proof: services were delayed on at least one day that week while tracks were cleared. But it’s the best of the three.
- Flights into Srinagar are quickest, but fog and snow cause cancellations. One snowy day in January 2026 grounded 58 flights. Avoid booking a tight connection on the way out.
- By road (NH-44), the Banihal stretch closes completely in heavy snow, and it’s slow even when open. Traffic advisories say avoid driving the Nashri–Navyug section at night. Mughal Road is shut all winter.
Good to know: Check train times on NTES or IRCTC rather than trusting a blog (including this one). Reported Jammu–Srinagar timings differed between sources in 2026, and the trains run six days a week, not seven.
Gulmarg: gondola, skiing and snow
The Gulmarg Gondola runs in two stages. Phase 1 goes from Gulmarg to Kongdoori, where the beginner slopes and the chairlift are. Phase 2 continues up to Apharwat, which is for experienced skiers and big views. Book only on the official Jammu & Kashmir Cable Car Corporation portal (etickets.jammukashmircablecar.com). Next-day Tatkal tickets open at 5 pm, and the ID you show at the gate must match the ticket. Ignore anyone in Tangmarg “selling” gondola tickets.
On price, we won’t give you a single number, because published fares didn’t agree in 2026. Figures quoted ranged from about ₹700–900 per phase to roughly ₹1,700 for both phases together, and locals complained publicly about the increase in January 2026. Check the portal on the day you book. Phase 2 also shuts in bad weather, sometimes at short notice.
Skiing for beginners: the season runs roughly December to March, depending on snow. Kongdoori has a 726 m drag lift that opened in December 2025, which makes learning there much easier. If you want to learn properly rather than try it for an afternoon, the government-run Indian Institute of Skiing and Mountaineering (IISM) in Gulmarg runs 14-day courses that include stay, food, equipment and training. Booking for 2026–27 opens on 12 November 2026 on iismgulmarg.in, and slots go fast. For a day or two with a private instructor and rented gear, expect a few thousand rupees a day. Agree on the price before you clip in.
Driving up: anti-skid chains are mandatory on the Tangmarg–Gulmarg road in snow and ice. Your driver will usually stop to fit them in Tangmarg. Budget for it and don’t argue about it, because the road is steep.
Can you visit Pahalgam and Sonamarg in winter?
Yes, both, with some limits.
- Sonamarg is now reachable all winter through the Z-Morh tunnel, opened in January 2025. It has turned into a proper snow destination: hotels were close to full over New Year 2026, with long traffic jams after fresh snow. You can’t continue beyond Sonamarg towards Zojila and Ladakh, as the pass closes for winter.
- Pahalgam is open. Betaab Valley and Aru have reopened, and the roads to Aru were kept open after snowfall in December 2025. Baisaran and Chandanwari were still closed as of April 2026. Check locally before you set your heart on them.
After the April 2025 attack at Baisaran, dozens of tourist spots were closed. They have reopened in phases since; by February 2026, 42 of 48 were open again, including Doodhpathri, Yousmarg and Thajiwas Glacier. Pony handlers, guides and vendors in tourist areas now carry police-linked QR identity cards. Use registered providers and ask to see the card.
Srinagar in winter: Dal Lake, houseboats and heating
Dal Lake doesn’t freeze solid. During cold spells the edges and inner parts get a sheet of ice, which happened several times in January 2026. Shikara rides usually carry on; boatmen literally break through the ice. On the coldest mornings they’re sometimes stopped. Go after 10 am when it’s a little warmer.
A houseboat in winter is either magical or miserable, and the difference is heating. Before you pay, ask exactly what heating there is (electric heater, bukhari stove, heated blanket), whether it’s included or charged extra, and whether there’s power backup. Winter electricity demand in Kashmir regularly outstrips supply, so cuts happen. Prices are often well below summer rates, which makes it worth booking a better boat.
Your phone may not work
Prepaid SIMs from outside Jammu & Kashmir don’t work there. This is a long-standing security rule. Postpaid connections do. If you’re on prepaid, either switch to postpaid before you go, or buy a local SIM with your ID and a photo once you arrive. Sort this out before you land. A dead phone at Srinagar airport, with your hotel’s number saved only in WhatsApp, is a bad start.
A realistic winter plan
- Day 1: arrive in Srinagar. Take it easy, evening on the Dal or the Boulevard.
- Day 2: Srinagar old city and the Mughal gardens (bare in winter, still worth an hour), then a shikara ride.
- Day 3: day trip or overnight in Gulmarg: gondola, snow, a ski lesson.
- Day 4: Sonamarg or Pahalgam, depending on the roads that morning.
- Day 5: buffer day for weather, then fly out on Day 6 or take the train.
Don’t skip the buffer day. It’s the difference between “the flight got cancelled, so we did Gulmarg again” and a missed connection.
If you want the trip arranged for you, our Kashmir tour packages cover Srinagar, Gulmarg, Pahalgam and Sonmarg, with family and honeymoon versions.
Quick answers
Is there snow in Srinagar in December?
Sometimes, but not reliably. Gulmarg and Sonamarg are far more likely to have snow. The forecast for 2026–27 points to a possibly mild, dry winter, with one or two big snow spells.
Can I go to Ladakh from Kashmir in winter?
Not by road. The Zojila pass beyond Sonamarg closes for winter. Fly to Leh instead.
Is the Gulmarg Gondola open in winter?
Yes. Winter is its main season, but Phase 2 is often suspended in bad weather. Go early in the day.
Will my Jio or Airtel prepaid SIM work in Kashmir?
No, not if it’s prepaid from another state. Postpaid works.
Want somewhere warm instead? December is peak season in Goa. Our Goa in December guide covers where to stay and how to avoid Christmas-week prices. Thinking of trying skiing? Read skiing in Gulmarg for beginners. More guides are in Destinations.
Facts checked November 2026. Sources include IMD climate normals, the J&K Cable Car Corporation, IISM Gulmarg, Indian Railways and All India Radio (Vande Bharat), the SDM Gulmarg road advisory, and reporting by PTI, Kashmir Reader, Greater Kashmir and The Tribune. Weather, fares and tourist-spot status change quickly. Check on the day.
